Unlock the language of beauty!
Skin Care & Cosmetic Ingredient Glossary
Explore our extensive dictionary of skincare and cosmetics terms & ingredients! This glossary encompasses well-known beauty components found in products for the face, body, and hair. Uncover the secrets behind the formulations that contribute to your skincare and beauty routines.
A
Acai is a small berry, native to Central and South America which is known for its potent antioxidants that aid in skin regeneration and preventing early signs of aging.
This deep purple fruit is also rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids; all of which work together to protect the skin from environmental aggressors, neutralize free radicals, and support building blocks for collagen.
Korean skincare products containing acai berry include Huxley Secret of Sahara Grab Water Essence and Innisfree My Real Squeeze Mask Acai Berry.
* Syn: Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
A neutral pH is 7, anything below that is considered acidic. Our skin maintains its barrier best at a value of 5.5 - slightly acidic - which is due to our acid mantle.
The acid mantle is the protective film on the surface of the skin, made up of natural oils and amino acids, that helps protect the skin from bacteria, viruses and other potential contaminants.
(Related post: How To Restore pH Balance in Skin?)
Adenosine, found in skin care products, is derived from yeast and has been shown to have anti-aging, soothing and skin renewing properties. It increases the production of collagen, smoothes the skin and decreases the appearance of crow's feet.
Products with Adenosine: Beauty Of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water, I'm From Rice Toner, and Purito Centella Green Level Buffet Serum.
Allantoin is a non-irritating ingredient that functions as moisturizing, protecting, and healing agents. It is extracted from the root of comfrey, sugar beet, chamomile, it helps the skin keep in more water and promote cell proliferation.
It also works in a way similar to an exfoliator that removes dead skin cells, making the skin soft and smooth.
🌼 Products with allantoin: Real Barrier Extreme Cream, Cosrx Advanced Snail 92 All In One Cream
Benzyl alcohol is used as a preservative to protect organic and natural skin care products from bacteria; however, it can cause dryness, irritation, and breakouts.
Fatty alcohols, on the other hand, serve as emulsifiers that help emulsify cosmetics and create a creamy texture. They can even soften hair and dry skin. Common representatives include cetearyl, stearyl, cetyl and behenyl alcohol.
Aloe vera is a wonder plant that soothes and hydrates the skin while providing antioxidant benefits. Aloe is rich in enzymes, vitamin A and C that can treat sunburned or irritated skin, acne and dry skin, and can also be used on sensitive skin.
🌼 Products with aloe vera: Benton Aloe Propolis Soothing Gel and Aromatica 95% Organic Aloe Vera Gel.
* Syn: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Algae and seaweed are real powerhouses of antioxidants, vitamins and minerals that support natural collagen and cell regeneration and reduce visible fine lines and wrinkles.
* Syn: Pullulan, Pepha Tight, Sea Kelp
A pH of 7 is neutral, anything above that is alkaline. When it comes to skin care, more acidic cleansers can help combat acne once the pH is below 6.
On the other hand, if you are struggling with excessive oil production, you can use an alkaline cleanser as it will completely remove oils and waste. Just remember to use a mildly acidic toner to keep your skin's pH in an optimal state.
(Related post: How To Restore pH Balance in Skin?)
These chemicals are a group of natural and synthetic ingredients that slough off the top layers of skin by dissolving the "glue" that binds dead skin cells to the skin's surface.
The most common AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. These exfoliating acids are best for surface-level skin problems such as acne scars, dark spots, uneven skin tone, rough texture and a dull complexion.
Here are face care products containing AHAs: Cosrx AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid and Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Full Set.
* Syn: Sodium Lactate, Lauryl Lactate, Cetyl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Gluconolactone, Fruit Acid
(Related Blog Post: What is AHA, BHA, or PHA?)
Apple Extract is packed with nutrients, vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, and antioxidants that provide anti-aging, smoothing, and skin-rejuvenating benefits.
It's also a natural chemical exfoliator loaded with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) that exfoliate dead skin cells, leaving skin looking brighter and younger.
Product with Apple Fruit Extract: Cosrx Refresh AHA/BHA Vitamin C Daily Toner
* Syn: Pyrus Malus fruit extract
Amino acids are important building blocks that help maintain hydration, resilience and overall skin’s health. They are essential for skin, hair and nails, as amino acid chains can be combined to form peptides.
* Syn: Arginine, Lysine, Glutaminic Acid, Proline, Valine, Tyrosine, Leucine, Glycine, Phenylalanine, Alanine, Glutamine, Cysteine.
Antioxidants protect the skin by fighting environmental stressors like free radicals, which can damage skin cells and cause oxidative stress that can lead to wrinkles and fine lines. Some studies show that they help reduce inflammation, which means they can help keep acne at bay.
These compounds can be found in a variety of fruits and vegetables, nuts, seeds, herbs, and spices, such as leafy greens, citrus fruits, mangoes, avocados, chia seeds, lean protein, and green tea.
Arbutin is a plant antioxidant derived from berries such as bearberry, mulberry, blueberry, and cranberry and is known for its brightening properties and is effective against hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and age spots.
Products with Arbutin: Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rice + Alpha Arbutin and Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Care Serum
* Syn: Alpha-Arbutin, Beta-Arbutin
Argan oil is packed with omega fatty acids, vitamin E, and linoleic acids - all of which work to moisturize and strengthen the natural protective barrier of the skin, and smoothen skin and hair.
* Syn: Argan, Argania spinosa
It is one of the topical forms of the potent antioxidant vitamin C, known for its skin-lightening and anti-aging effects. It helps inhibit melanin production in the skin and improves the appearance of signs of aging.
Products with Ascorbic Acid: Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop, By Wishtrend Pure Vitamin C 21.5% Advanced Serum, and Cosrx The Vitamin C 23 Serum.
(A related blog post: What Are Vitamin C Benefits in Skin Care? )
* Syn: L-ascorbic acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in human skin and is derived from yeast, wheat, barley and rye. It has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and brightening properties that help kill acne-causing bacteria, relieve redness, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
B
Beeswax is a natural emollient and humectant that attracts moisture and forms a barrier to lock it in and soften the skin. It is a natural wax produced by honey bees and is a great alternative to mineral oil.
Beeswax is rich in vitamin A and has anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties that are important in fighting dry skin, infections, eczema and stretch marks.
Bergamot oil is extracted from the rind or peel of citrus fruits and has antibacterial, antiseptic and analgesic qualities. It is commonly used in natural fragrances and colognes, skin and hair care products, and acne treatments.
* Syn: Citrus Aurantium Bergarmia Fruit Oil
Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO) is an FDA-approved ingredient that is antimicrobial, meaning it helps kill p.acnes - the bacteria that can contribute to acne breakouts. It is one of the very effective over-the-counter (OTC) topical acne treatments.
Beta-carotene is one of the carotenoids found in plants, fruits, and colorful and green leafy vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, apricots, and spinach.
It is a red-orange pigment from the sources and is converted into vitamin A (retinol) in our bodies - which is needed for healthy skin and eyes. This skin-conditioning ingredient is also known for its skin-rejuvenating properties and good antioxidant activity.
Beta-glucans can have skin-soothing, hydrating, antioxidant and anti-aging properties. It is a polysaccharide sugar derived from oats, yeasts, mushrooms, algae and plants. As a humectant, it helps attract moisture into the skin while improving redness and visible wrinkles.
Products with Beta-Glucan: iUNIK Beta-Glucan Power Moisture Serum, iUNIK Beta-Glucan Daily Moisture Cream, and Pyunkang Yul Black Tea Time Reverse Eye Cream.
Betaine is used in skin care products for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and moisture-binding properties. Betaine can be naturally derived from sugar beets or synthetically produced. Betaine is also often used in hair care products to condition and strengthen hair.
Products with Betaine: Cosrx One Step Original Clear Pad, Benton Aloe Propolis Soothing Gel.
BHAs are better known as salicylic acid, an oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates deep into the skin and helps unclog pores, control oil production and fight blackheads.
Willow bark extract has BHA-like functions due to salicin - it works the same way as aspirin by reducing inflammation. BHAs are beneficial for all skin types, but are generally preferred for oily, acne-prone skin with blocked pores or inflamed acne.
Exfoliating products containing BHAs are Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Set, Cosrx Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser and Benton Aloe BHA Skin Toner.
* Syn: Betaine salicylate
Bifida ferment lysate is a type of probiotic obtained through the fermentation of Bifida bacteria. It is known to relieve inflammation and moisturize, protect and protect the skin from free radical damage.
Products with Bifida Ferment Lysate: Benton Fermentation Eye Cream and Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence.
Bio-Cellulose is an ultra-fine natural fiber derived from the fermentation of coconut water that is environmentally friendly and biodegradable.
Biocellulose masks are known for their better adhesion and strong affinity to water and are increasingly used in the global face mask market.
* Syn: Microbial Cellulose.
Bisabolol is a floral-scented oily liquid that is the main component of the essential oil extract from German chamomile. It’s commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance, but also has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, skin lightening properties.
This skin conditioning agent can also help enhance the absorption of other active ingredients more effectively.
Here are products containing bisabolol: Urang Brightening Blue Oil Serum and Huxley Essence Brightly Ever After.
* Syn: α-(−)-bisabolol, levomenol, Alpha-Bisabolol
Butylene glycol is an organic alcohol derived from petroleum that works as a humectant — which has the ability to draw moisture.
Butylene glycol is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics, hair and body care products, similar to propylene glycol. However Butylene glycol has a thinner consistency than propylene glycol, which makes it feel less greasy and easier to apply.
C
Caffeine is often known to be used in cellulite cream and eye cream for helping puffy eyes; however, there are mixed studies for its effectiveness. Yet caffeine contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Caprylic and capric fatty acids, derived from coconut oil and glycerin, help form a barrier on the skin's surface to counteract moisture loss. They are used in soaps and cosmetics because they have emollient, thickening and texture-enhancing properties.
It also binds other ingredients together, and can work as a preservative of sorts to make the active ingredients in cosmetics last longer.
CBD is one of the naturally occurring compounds, also called cannabinoids, extracted from the Cannabis sativa plant, such as marijuana and hemp.
In the cosmetics industry, the oil is used as an active ingredient because of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It can help sop up excess oil secretions on the skin that lead to acne breakouts.
Castor oil is a nutrient-rich vegetable oil pressed from castor beans that acts as a natural emollient and viscosity controller. It contains ricinoleic acid and fatty acids that help in the skin’s natural moisture balance and smoothening dry, flaky skin.
* Syn: Ricinus communis
Cellulose is a natural compound derived from the plant cell walls and typically made from non-toxic wood pulp or cotton.
It’s often used as a thickener and/or film-forming agent in skincare, bath, haircare, eye and facial makeup, and shaving products.
Ceramides are a class of fatty acids, aka lipids(fats), that hold together the cells of the epidermis to help the skin retain moisture and improve the protective barrier function of the skin.
They’re found naturally in skin and make up about 50% of the skin’s uppermost layers of skin.
🌼 Products containing ceramides: Purito Centella Unscented Recovery Cream, Urang Rose Ceramide Cream and Cosrx Balancium Comfort Ceramide Cream.
( Related blog post: Skincare Benefits: 5 Best Korean Ceramide Moisturizers )
Citric acid is a member of the AHA family that occurs naturally in citrus fruits such as lemons and limes. It is commonly used in skin care products to lighten skin tone, relieve acne, adjust the pH balance, or lift off dead skin cells with its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and exfoliating effects.
Products with Citric Acid: Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner and Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Cream.
Coconut oil is composed of more than 90% natural saturated fats such as linoleic acid and lauric acid, which act as emollients and occlusives, helping to seal moisture and soften the skin.
* Syn: Cocos Nucifera Oil
Collagen is a protein containing amino acids that mainly contribute to the health, elasticity, resilience and hydration of the skin.
It occurs naturally in the human body and accounts for about one-third of all proteins in the body. As we get older, our bodies produce less collagen, which contributes to wrinkling and sagging of the skin.
* Syn: Atelocollagen, Marine Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen
Coenzyme Q10 is a powerful antioxidant and nutrient that occurs naturally in the body, but our bodies produce less CoQ10 as we age. This substance can also be absorbed through foods such as meat, fish or avocado.
It helps reduce oxidative damage from free radicals, such as UV rays, and promotes collagen and elastin production.
* Syn: Ubiquinone, CoQ10, Co-Q10, Ubiquinone-Q10, Ubidecarenone, Vitamin Q10
Rich in antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, E and K, which boost collagen production and fight free radicals that may cause wrinkles.
The acid found in cranberries acts as an exfoliant and has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that soothe inflamed and irritated skin.
* Syn: Vaccinium Macrocarpon
Clays are known for their detoxifying, purifying, cleansing and exfoliating properties, absorbing excess oils and impurities from clogged pores - in turn, helping to control shine, soothe blemishes and blackheads.
A few common types of clays are kaolin, rose, bentonite, French green and red. Cosmetics containing clay are Heimish All Clean White Clay Foam and Klavuu Special Care Pearl Glow Mask.
Copper peptides are an antioxidant and rejuvenating powerhouse with anti-inflammatory properties. A peptide found naturally in the body, when combined with copper (Cu), forms a peptide complex that provides superior benefits to mature skin by restoring elasticity and collagen - the skin's "bouncy" texture.
* Syn: GHK-Cu, Copper Tripeptide-1, Matrixyl 3000, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Carrier peptides
D
Dihydroxyacetone is derived from sugar and is a color additive used in self-tanners and sunless tanning products. DHA interacts with amino acids in the outermost layers of the skin to turn the skin a darker shade of brown in a matter of hours.
* Syn: Glycerone
E
Elastin is a fibrous protein found in connective tissues throughout the body that allows the skin to expand, stretch and bounce back, making the skin tight and firm.
Emollients are substances that soften, soothe and increase the moisture content of the skin. They also relieve itching and flaking by forming an oily or waxy layer on top of the skin that locks in moisture.
Topical emollients are available in the form of creams, lotions, ointments, and gels and are commonly used to treat dry, scaly skin conditions such as eczema, ichthyosis, and psoriasis.
Emollients can be used as natural or synthetic ingredients. Commonly used are vegetable oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, mineral oils, petrolatum, dimethicone, and fatty acids such as lanolin or emu oil. They are usually formulated with a humectant and an occlusive, in order to achieve its ultimate outcomes.
Emulsifying agents, also known as surface active agents, are soluble in both water(hydrophilic) and oil(lipophilic) that are widely used throughout the cosmetics industry to stabilize formulas and textures of creams and lotions by preventing ingredients from separating.
Some commonly used emulsifiers in skin care are steric acid, glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl lactylate, xanthan gum, cetearyl olivate, cetearyl alcohol.
Essential oils are concentrated and fragrant plant extracts from flowers, barks, leaves or fruits that have various therapeutic and skin care benefits due to their anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and soothing properties.
For topical use, these potent compounds should be combined with a fatty carrier oil such as jojoba, castor or coconut oil. Common examples of essential oils include lavender, rosehip, frankincense, and tea tree oil.
Eucalyptus is obtained from the oval-shaped leaves of evergreen trees, originally native to Australia. It is known for its antiseptic, pain-relieving, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Ellagic acid is a naturally occurring polyphenol found in numerous fruits and vegetables such as strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, cranberries, cherries, pomegranates, walnuts, and pecans.
It has been shown to have antioxidant and anti-proliferative properties that protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV rays and the natural aging process.
EFAs are polyunsaturated fatty acids that play a critical role in maintaining good health, including glowing skin, but our bodies can't produce them on their own. This means they must be obtained from food, such as fish oil, flaxseed (linseed) oil, walnut oil, or chia seeds.
The two primary essential fatty acids for our skin are alpha-linolenic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid) and linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid). They help repair barrier function and maintain overall skin health.
F
Fatty acids are commonly used in beauty products as emulsifiers, emollients or skin replenishing agents. They are usually found in plant and animal fats (lipids). Common examples of natural fatty acids for skin include glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids.
The fermentation of skin care ingredients usually creates amino acids and antioxidants and increases nutrient density, which can provide amazing anti-aging effects.
They can also maximize the goodness of ingredients more effectively, as microorganisms (bacteria) release enzymes that break down ingredients and convert them into active forms, which allows for faster and deeper absorption into the skin due to smaller molecules.
Popular fermented ingredients in cosmetics include sea kelp, black soy, ginseng, fermented rice and yeast (Saccharomyces).
🌼 Products with Fermented Ingredients: Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence, Benton Fermentation Eye Cream, and Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule 5x.
G
Galactomyces is a genus of fungi and a byproduct of Aspergillus oryzae, a yeast added for fermentation when brewing sake. GFF is rich in vitamins, amino acids, minerals and nutrients and provides excellent anti-aging and nourishing benefits.
This yeast-derived ingredient is effective in enhancing the skin tone and brightening the tired dull skin, controlling sebum production, and reducing the appearance of blackheads and enlarged pores.
As GFF is fungal in origin, it may aggravate fungal acne, although it is known to improve acne. Korean beauty products that contain Galactomyces include Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence, Benton Fermentation Eye Cream.
* Synonym: Pitera: you may know from SK-II Facial Treatment Essence
( Related blog post: Galactomyces Benefits: 8 Fermented (Korean) Skin Care Products )
Gallic acid is an organic compound, also called tannin, that occurs naturally in plant-based foods and herbs such as gall nuts, blueberries, sumac, flaxseed, tea leaves, witch hazel, grapes, hops and oak bark.
GA is known for its potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and antiviral properties, and helps protect cells from oxidative damage and photoaging caused by UV-B radiation.
Glycerin is a natural humectant (hygroscopic) found in plants or animal sources that draws moisture from the deeper layers of the skin or the air into the outer layer of the skin, keeping the skin hydrated, soft and supple.
It is usually used in combination with emollients and/or occlusives to enhance penetration of the active ingredients and combat against dry, rough, scaly, and itchy skin.
* Synonym: Glycerol, Glycyl alcohol
Products with Glycerin: Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum Ginseng + Retinal, Beauty Of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water.
Goji berries are a significant source of vitamins, amino acids, zinc, antioxidants and carotenoids, all of which have various benefits for the skin, from promoting collagen and elastin production to reducing hyperpigmentation and oxidative stress.
This superfruit has been shown to regulate tyrosinase activity and melanin levels, making it beneficial for anyone with uneven skin tone.
* Synonym: Wolfberries, Lycium Barbarum, barbary boxthorn, Kukoshi, Gou Qi Zi
Glycolic acid is the most commonly used alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is a powerful chemical exfoliant that breaks down the bonds between keratinocytes, also known as skin cells, in the outer layers of the skin, improving the appearance of wrinkles, acne scars, enlarged pores, and discoloration.
Glycolic acid is considered by most to be bioavailable and the best performing of the AHAs due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin due to its smallest molecule size.
If you want to try a product with allantoin, check out Cosrx AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid, Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum, Cosrx AC Collection Calming Liquid Intensive.
( Related blog post: What Is The Difference Between AHA BHA and PHA? )
Grape seed oil and extract is a great source of antioxidants, vitamins C and E, resveratrol, polyphenol and proanthocyanidins - it has healing, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
It has been shown to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV-A and UV-B radiation, pollution, and smoking, helping the skin to remain elastic and healthy.
Grape seed oil contains linoleic acid and omega-6 fatty acids that strengthen the skin's barrier function, as well as it has astringent and polyphenolic properties that firm the skin and counteract premature aging.
It is commonly used in moisturizers, hair care products and eye wrinkle creams. Korean skin care products containing grape seed are Atopalm MLE Cream, Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm Revitalizing, and Urang Natural Cleansing Oil.
* Synonym: Vitis Vinifera
Green tea is made from the leaves and buds of the same plant as black tea, Camellia sinensis, and has been shown to have skin-soothing, sebum-regulating, and anti-aging effects on the skin.
The polyphenols and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG, also known as catechins) in green tea have antioxidant, calming properties and may be helpful in treating acne.
🌼 Products with green tea: Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner, Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum Green Tea + Panthenol, The Saem Natural Green Tea Mask Sheet, and Cosrx One Step Green Hero Calming Pad.
* Syn: Camellia Sinensis
( Related blog post: Anti-Aging: 10 Best Korean Green Tea Skin Care Products )
H
Hemp seed oil is extracted by cold pressing the hemp seed and typically do not contain THC (tetrahydrocannabinol). It is often confused with hemp oil, which also contains CBD (cannabidiol) oil, which is extracted from the flowers, leaves or stem of the cannabis plant (and sometimes from the seeds).
Hemp seed oil is rich in vitamins and essential fatty acids that support and repair skin barrier function, regulate skin lipid production, and soothe inflamed skin.
It is non-comedogenic, which means it will not clog pores, making it suitable for people with acne or oily, combination skin.
* Syn: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Humectants are common moisturizing agents known to draw water molecules from the environment into the top layer of skin, the stratum corneum, thus preserving the skin's natural moisture. They are widely used in face and hand creams, facial cleansers, body lotions, shampoos, and hair products.
These water-loving substances can be man-made or derived from nature and include ingredients such as honey, aloe vera, glycerin, lactic acid, baobab, hydrolyzed wheat, sorbitol (derived from sugar cane), hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, sodium PCA, allantoin, butylene glycol, or sodium hyaluronate.
(Related blog post: How to choose the best moisturizer for your skin type?)
Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance found in our bodies and is known for its moisture-retaining properties - it can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, keeping skin plump and supple.
Hyaluronic acid is beneficial for all skin types and is found in many beauty products, including high-end anti-aging products. For skincare products with hyaluronic acid, you'll love Cosrx Hyaluronic Acid Intensive Cream, Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel SPF 50+ PA++++, and The Plant Base Waterfall Moist Balanced Hyaluronic Acid 100.
* Syn: Acide Hyaluronique, Ácido Hialurónico, Glycoaminoglycan, Hyaluronate Sodium, Sodium Hyaluronate
( Related blog post: 15 Best (Korean) Hyaluronic Acid Serums for Dry Skin & Anti-Aging )
Hydrogel is a gel that that consists of over 90 percent of liquid and can absorb 500 times its weight thanks to its water-binding ability. It also has the ability to adhere to the skin, allowing it to soak up moisture and/or nutrients from the hydrogel base.
This polymer material gel is extensively used in the medical field for wound dressings, and in the skin care market it can be found in an eye patch and a hydrogel face mask.
You should try Heimish Bulgarian Rose Water Hydrogel Eye Patch and Petitfee Black Pearl and Gold Hydrogel Eye Patch.
Hydrolyzed collagen, often derived from fish or cattle, is a broken down form of "regular" collagen that is easier to dissolve; however, technically it is not true collagen, but a mixture of peptides, which is why it is also known as collagen peptides.
Hydrolyzed collagen helps moisturize dry skin and hair, and may help reduce the appearance of fine lines and crow's feet.
Hydroquinone is a skin lightening agent that lightens dark skin spots such as age spots, freckles, liver spots, melisma, sun spots, chloasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme necessary for melanin biosynthesis.
Although hydroquinone has long been one of the most effective skin care ingredients for depigmentation, it is still a controversial ingredient and has been banned in several countries, including Europe and Japan, due to the case of ochronosis that occurred in South Africa.
Ochronosis means that the skin becomes hard and dark where the product has been applied. However, the product in question was found to contain toxic, illegal ingredients such as mercury and other harmful ingredients.
In the U.S., the FDA allows a maximum of 2 percent hydroquinone in over-the-counter products and 4 percent in prescription products.
J
Jojoba oil resembles the skin's natural sebum and is easily absorbed to balance, moisturize and nourish the skin without clogging pores. Jojoba oil is an oil-like wax ester extracted from the seed of the jojoba plant.
Rich in vitamins A, E and D, antioxidants, fatty acids and anti-inflammatory properties, it helps repair damaged skin and reduce redness caused by dryness, rosacea, eczema or psoriasis.
If you're looking for jojoba products, check out Pyunkang Yul Balancing Gel, Pyunkang Yul Moisture Cream, and Urang Vitamin Oil Serum.
* Synonym: Isopropyl Jojobate, Simmondsia Chinensis
K
Kaolin is a clay-like mineral, also known as aluminum silicate, that occurs naturally and can be produced in a laboratory environment.
Typically used in China for pottery and medicine, kaolin also has excellent absorbent, detoxifying, exfoliating, and abrasive properties that can be beneficial for cosmetics and skincare.
Kaolin is easily found in some face and body care products, such as a gentle facial cleanser or clay mask. This is because clay absorbs excess oil and gunk from pores and dampens shine, leaving skin clear and smooth.
Check out Heimish All Clean White Clay Foam and Klavuu Special Care Pearl Glow Mask.
* Synonym: White Clay, China Clay
Kojic acid is a fungus-derived ingredient derived from Aspergillus oryzae, which is called koji mold in Japanese. It is an important ingredient in the fermentation process of saccharifying rice to make sake (Japanese rice wine).
Frequently used in some soaps, creams, lotions and serums due to its skin lightening and exfoliating properties. It acts as a tyrosine suppressor that fights excessive melanin production, and it can help lighten visible sun damage and scars.
* Synonym: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate
L
Lactic acid, derived from fermented milk, is one of the most researched alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which breaks down the bonds between skin cells so that dead skin cells can be sloughed away to reveal brighter, more even-toned skin.
It is part of the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), which occur naturally in our skin and keep the outer layer hydrated and protected.
Korean skin care products with lactic acid are Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum and Cosrx AC Collection Calming Liquid Intensive.
*Syn: Sodium Lactate
Lanolin is a waxy substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of sheep and is also known as lanolin or wool fat. Lanolin acts as an effective emollient - a lubricant on the skin that helps lock in moisture and soften dry, rough, flaky and irritated skin.
Lavender oil is commonly known for its fragrance and therapeutic components, and works wonders on inflammation and kills bacteria due to its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.
The flower extract is less potent than the essential oil and is made from dried flowers and oils of the lavender plant.
*Syn: Lavandula Angustifolia, Lavandula Officinalis
Licorice is derived from the plant Glycyrrhiza Glabra, which means "sweet root" in Greek, and has a soothing and skin-brightening effect on dull, lackluster, sensitive and reddened skin.
Liquorice root contains powerful active ingredients - antioxidants to neutralize free radicals and glycyrrhizin to relieve redness and swelling due to anti-inflammatory properties.
Glabridin and liquiritin help lighten sun spots and dark circles by interrupting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the formation of pigment in response to sun exposure. This, in turn, reduces hyperpigmentation. Licochalcone, found in licorice root, has been shown to control the oil content of the skin.
For products containing licorice extract, check out Acwell Licorice pH Balancing Cleansing Toner, Klairs Supple Preparation Facial Toner, and Pyunkang Yul Acne Cream.
*Syn: Liquorice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra
Linoleic acid is an omega-6 plant-based essential fatty acid (EFA) - it is essential for human health, but is not produced by the body, making it different from oleic acid.
Found in seeds, nuts and other vegetable oils such as safflower, rosehip, evening primrose and hemp seeds. It helps restore the natural barrier function and acts as an essential building block for ceramides - one of the moisturizing agents.
The polyunsaturated oil is lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin without clogging pores, making it suitable for combination, oily and congested skin.
*Syn: Alpha-linolenic Acid
Lentil extract is a natural active ingredient that has nice moisturizing benefits and works as a skin conditioning and a protecting agent.
Lentil seed is rich in vitamin B5 and oligosaccharides — which help reduce the appearance of dilated pores, shininess, and refines the look of skin’s texture.
*Syn: Lens Esculenta
M
Mandelic acid, derived from bitter almonds, is an Alpha Hydroxyl Acid (AHA) that works to accelerate cell turnover by gently lifting off dead skin cells; however, its large molecular size makes it gentler than other AHAs, such as glycolic acid.
The chemical exfoliant helps brighten skin tone, fade unwanted acne scars and dark spots, and minimize the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles.
Product with Mandelic Acid: By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water.
Naturally rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, amino acids, vitamin C and E, Marula oil has been hailed for its anti-aging, emollients, and anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
It is derived from either the nut or the soft kernel seeds of the fruits of the African Marula trees. Marula oil is lightweight and absorbed quickly into the skin, creating a light layer on top of the skin to lock in moisture.
*Syn: Sclerocarya Birrea
Typically derived from plants such as peppermint and eucalyptus, menthol is found in facial toners, shaving gels, and moisturizers, but usually in synthetic form.
Menthol provides a cooling and fresh sensation while functioning as a topical analgesic (pain reliever), antifungal agent, and penetration enhancer.
One thing to keep in mind is that menthol can cause eye and skin irritation and/or be sensitizing, especially for sensitive, rosacea and acne-prone skin.
Mexoryl is widely used in sun creams and lotions due to its excellent UV-absorbing and photostable capabilities. There are two types of Mexoryl and both are L'Oréal Group exclusive sunscreen agents- Mexoryl SX is water soluble and protects the skin from UVA rays, while Mexoryl XL is lipid soluble and protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays.
*Syn: Mexoryl XL: Drometrizole Trisiloxane / Mexoryl SX: Ecamsule, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Made up of a mix of purified water, hydrating agents and micelles — tiny particles of cleansing oils that are attracted to dirt, makeup, and grime and cleanse the skin without drying out the skin.
Like petroleum jelly, mineral oil is a byproduct of the petroleum distillation and both are considered petrochemicals.
As an effective emollient and an occlusive agent, mineral oil has been shown to improve skin softness and barrier function by forming a film on the skin’s surface.
Extracted from the seeds of Moringa tree, which is beginning to gain more popularity as “the miracle tree”. Moringa oil is a powerhouse of antioxidants, omega fatty acids, and amino acids that restore the skin’s barrier and seal in hydration.
Morniga oil is similar to the oil our body produces, making it easily absorbed and keeping the skin nourished and balanced. It is also high in cytokinins, vitamins (A, C, E), and zeatin which helps in promoting cellular growth and delaying signs of aging.
E Nature Moringa Cleansing Balm is a great face cleanser/makeup remover for the first step of double cleansing method.
*Syn: Moringa Oleifera
N
Niacinamide, a form of water-soluble vitamin B3, works to diminish the appearance of aging, enlarged pores, hyperpigmentation, and improves uneven skin tone and texture, as well as the skin's barrier function.
Vitamin B3 is rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties that help protect skin from environmental damage, boost hydration levels and cell turnover, while soothing redness and irritation.
🌼 Korean products with niacinamde: Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule, Pyunkang Yul Black Tea Time Reverse Eye Cream, Benton Snail Bee High Content Skin Lotion, and Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid.
*Syn: Nicotinamide, Nicotinic Acid Amide, Myristyl Nicotinate
( Related blog post: A Guide to Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) in Skin Care )
O
Olive oil, extracted from the fruit of the olive tree, is rich in the fatty acid squalene, which traps water in the skin and strengthens the skin barrier - making it ideal for extremely dry skin (especially on the body).
For oily and acne-prone skin, keep in mind that it is moderately comedogenic - meaning it can clog and cause breakouts.
*Syn: Olea Europaea
Oleic acid, which is rich in omega-9 fatty acids, is naturally produced by our bodies and is found in various animal and vegetable oils such as sea buckthorn, olive, marula, grape and sunflower seeds.
Oleic acid is thicker and feels richer than linoleic acid and is better suited for dry, aging and sensitive skin. This monounsaturated fatty acid is a great source of plant-based nutrients, and combining it with other ingredients boosts its ability to strengthen the skin barrier and soothe irritation.
Occlusive agents increase the moisture content of the skin by forming a film that prevents water loss from the epidermis. Thanks to their thick and rich texture, occlusive moisturizers are best suited for very dry, mature and damaged skin
However, if your skin is prone to breakouts, it is important to make sure that the ingredients are non-comedogenic -which means it doesn’t congest pores.
Common occlusive ingredients include waxes, petrolatum, silicones, and dimethicones. Please note that some ingredients may have more than one moisturizing property (humectant, emollient, occlusive properties) at the same time - such as lanolin, mineral oil, and shea butter.
Octinoxate is a chemical filter that acts as a UVB absorber and is commonly used in sunscreens, shampoos, nail polish, lipsticks, hair dyes and other beauty products.
Octinoxate filters UVB rays from the sun and has minimal protective effect against UVA rays. Therefore, in order to get broad-spectrum protection, octinoxate is often combined with zinc oxide or avobenzone or another chemical UVA filter.
Despite being a conventional ingredient in the cosmetics industry, it is increasingly associated with numerous risks to animals and the environment (and possibly to humans, as it is a hormone disruptor). To date, however, there has been little in-depth research.
In general, it is safe to use in low concentrations—according to the U.S. FDA, the recommended use level is up to 7.5 percent.
*Syn: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate. Escalol
As an oil-soluble sunscreen agent, octocrylene absorbs UV rays and protects the skin from the sun's harmful effects, such as premature aging, and reduces the risk of skin cancer; however, it is considered safe in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 10%.
As an ultraviolet light absorber, Oxybenzone absorbs UVB and short-wave UVA, preventing potential damage from sun exposure. The active ingredient also acts as a photostabilizer and is one of the most commonly used ingredients in commercial chemical sunscreens.
Despite its widespread use, some studies have raised concerns about the use of oxybenzone because it is absorbed by the skin and remains in our bodies for an unknown amount of time. In addition, it has been associated with a high rate of skin reactions and allergies.
*Syn: Benzophenone-3
P
Naturally occurring in the raw fruit of the papaya plant, papain is a protein-degrading (proteolytic) enzyme that helps break down large proteins into smaller pieces, also called peptides and amino acids.
Papaya is high in antioxidants, vitamins, phytochemicals, beta-carotene and chymopapain, which also have antibacterial, antifungal, lightening and exfoliating properties.
This helps to remove damaged keratin so that the product can be better absorbed, inflammation is reduced and the skin can recover from scarring.
Beware, however, that some studies have shown that this enzyme can compromise the skin barrier and cause allergic reactions.
*Syn: Papaya Proteinase
Parabens (P-hydroxybenzoic acid - PHBA) are the most widely used preservatives in cosmetics, body and personal care products, and pharmaceutical products.
They help prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, fungi and other microbes, extending the shelf life of products, especially in moist, warm places like the bathroom.
Parabens are controversial ingredients - including variants such as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben. They are accused of containing a weak estrogen-like property that can lead to health risks.
However, some of the research on this topic relates to high concentrations (up to 100%), whereas 1% or less parabens are common in cosmetic formulations.
For those who are not comfortable to use products containing parabens, alternatives such as essential oils, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerin, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol or benzoic acid can be used.
They may have some drawbacks, however - some are effective against fungus and yeast but have problems with bacteria, others are more likely to cause skin irritation or are simply more expensive.
Another option is to use airless pump bottles, which prevent the product from being overexposed to air, extending shelf life.
Phthalates are made from phthalic acid (benzenedicarboxylic acid) and are used as softener, solvents, or fragrances in many beauty and personal care products, such as moisturizing lotions, color makeup, perfumes, nail polishes, shampoos, hair sprays, body washes, and soaps.
Phthalates, however, have attracted much attention because of their potential as endocrine (or hormone) disrupting chemicals - also known as EDCs.
What are EDCs? Endocrine disruptors, when ingested by the body, can mimic or disrupt the body's metabolism and hormones. They are found in many everyday products such as plastic bottles, toys, and even food.
Thankfully, many brands have made their formulas ‘phthalate-free’, but be aware that phthalates can be known by many different names, such as phthalate (DEP), n-butyl phthalate (DBP), dimethyl phthalate (DMP), di-2-ethyl-hexyl phthalate (DEHP), diisobutyl phthalate (DiBP), phthalate esters, fragrances, and more.
An essential oil derived from a hybrid plant of watermint and spearmint, peppermint oil is typically used in aromatherapy, toothpastes, mouthwashes, as well as cosmetics.
Peppermint is well-known to relieve upset stomachs and tension headaches, but in cosmetics it can soothe dryness or irritation and cleanse the skin due to its antiseptic and antibacterial properties.
Although essential oils are generally safe in small amounts, they can cause allergic reactions or sensitizing effects on the skin.
*Syn: Mentha Piperita
Pomegranate is a great source of antioxidants, vitamins B and C, ellagic acid and anthocyanins, which help detoxify the skin, replenish dry and dull skin and balance the skin's moisture content.
*Syn: Punica Granatum
Prickly Pear Seed Oil is a carrier oil with extremely high levels of natural, high-potency antioxidants and essential fatty acids that moisturize and soften the skin, and prevent premature wrinkling and skin damage caused by free radicals and UV rays.
Cactus seed oil contains tremendous amounts of vitamins E and K, which helps lighten hyperpigmentation and under-eye dark circles, promote cell regeneration and increase moisture retention.
It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that speed wound healing and reduce redness and irritation.
Huxley skincare uses sustainably farmed, certified organic prickly pear seed oil in their entire beauty line, such as in the Anti-Gravity Cream, Secret of Sahara Grab Water Essence.
*Syn: Barbary fig seed oil, Opuntia Ficus Indica, Indian fig oil
Phytosterols are plant-derived compounds that are similar in structure and function to cholesterol in that they bind water and make the skin look healthier and plumper.
Phytosterols can be divided into plant sterols and plant stanols, which shield the skin from sun damage, environmental stressors and moisture loss.
We cannot synthesize phytosterols, but they can be found in various dietary sources of plant origin, such as vegetable oils (canola, safflower, sesame, soybeans), nuts and seeds (pumpkin, cashew, peanut), cereals, and legumes.
Rich in antioxidants, vitamin E, minerals, omega-3 and 6 fatty acids, pumpkin seed oil helps smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and protects skin from environmental stressors by neutralizing free radicals.
Pumpkin seeds also contain zinc, which has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and astringent properties that may be beneficial for oily skin types, especially those with inflammatory acne and associated scarring.
*Syn: Cucurbita Pepo
Peptides are short strings of amino acids that are building blocks of proteins found in our bodies. Peptides act as messengers in our bodies to promote collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve elasticity and firmness.
For maximum results, it is better to use peptides in conjunction with skin brightening or antioxidant-rich ingredients that are great for anti-aging effects.
🌼 Products with peptides: Cosrx Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream and Pyunkang Yul Black Tea Time Reverse Eye Cream.
*Syn: Tetrapeptides, Hexapeptides, Argireline
( Recommend blog post: 10 Best Korean Anti-Aging Skincare Products (for 30’s) )
Probiotics are live bacteria and yeasts that help balance our microbiome and improve our immune system and overall skin health.
The more good bacteria we have in our bodies, the more they act as a shield against bad bacteria - which can help prevent and treat skin conditions such as dry skin, acne, eczema, premature aging, unbalanced skin pH and UV-related skin damage.
Korean beauty product with probiotics: Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule
*Syn: Bifidobacterium, Lactobacillu, Vitreoscill, Bacillus Coagulans
Propolis, also known as bee glue, is a resinous mixture produced by honeybees made up of tree buds, beeswax, saliva, flower sap and other compounds to build their hives. Bee propolis is known for its healing, antibacterial, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties.
Propolis can help control oil production, soothe acne-prone skin, redness and sensitive skin. It also helps protect the skin from free radicals and hydrates the skin without leaving a heavy residue, leaving the skin smoother and softer.
🌼 Products with honey & propolis: Benton Aloe Propolis Soothing Gel and Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask.
R
Resveratrol is a naturally occurring potent antioxidant and a type of polyphenol found in grapes, berries (such as cranberries, blueberries and mulberries), peanuts, pistachios and dark chocolate.
Resveratrol has been shown to fight free radicals, fungal infections, UV radiation, signs of aging and inflammation. It has a rejuvenating power and improves uneven skin tone, rough texture, fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dryness, and radiance.
Product with Resveratrol: Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm Revitalizing
Retinoids are an umbrella term for any synthetic vitamin A, and retinol is one of many different types of retinoids. Retinoids help improve cell turnover and collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots and acne scars, minimize enlarged pores and refine skin texture.
When using a retinoid-based product, you may experience dryness, flaky skin, irritation and acne breakouts for a few weeks during the purge phase - this is your skin's reaction to a specific ingredient that triggers cell turnover.
It's best to opt for your nighttime skincare routine and apply moisturizer and sunscreen the next morning, and avoid using retinoids and AHA at the same time, as this can irritate your skin or cause negative reactions.
*Syn: Retinoid, Tretinoin, Tazarotene, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinaldehyde, Adapalene
🌼 Products with retinol & retinal: Cosrx The Retinol 0.1 Cream, Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum Ginseng + Retinal
Rosehip seed oil, derived from the seeds of rose bushes, is prized for its hydrating, healing and anti-aging properties. It helps moisturize, repair damaged skin and protect skin from daily oxidative stress.
Rosehip oil contains an abundance of vitamins A and C, antioxidants and essential fatty acids (omega-3 linoleic acid and omega-6 linoleic acid) that support cell regeneration, boost overall radiance and firm the skin.
Because of its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, it may be helpful for acne, rosacea, eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions.
Our picks: Aromatica Organic Rosehip Oil, Olivarrier Wash All Barrier Relief, and Urang Vitamin Oil Serum.
*Syn: Rose Canina
Rose oil and water are powerful anti-inflammatory, antibacterial agents that help reduce redness, inflammation and aid in killing off acne-causing bacteria and preventing future breakouts.
Rose water and oil also contains antioxidants, vitamin C, phenolics that provide anti-aging and fragrant benefits.
Our picks: Urang Rose Ceramide Cream, Heimish Bulgarian Rose Water Hydrogel Eye Patch.
*Syn: Rosa Damascena, Damask Rose
Rosemary leaf extract contains rosmarinic acid - a powerful antioxidant that helps prevent skin damage and signs of premature aging by neutralizing free radicals.
Rich in calcium, minerals, magnesium, iron, manganese, phosphorus, potassium, zinc and vitamins that support collagen production and help skin look firmer and more elastic.
This botanical ingredient also has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, astringent and toning properties that may be useful in combating many skin conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis.
Please note that rosemary extract is different from rosemary oil, which contains a higher concentration of fragrances that may cause allergies or irritation.
*Syn: Rosmarius Officinalis
S
Safflower oil, derived from the seeds of the safflower plant—a relative of the sunflower—is a natural source of linoleic acids (omega-6) and vitamin E, which enhance skin texture, balance sebum levels, and protect skin from dryness and harmful ultraviolet rays from the sun.
Generally, safflower oil has a light and non-greasy consistency, which makes it quickly absorbed into the skin and proves it to be anti-inflammatory and non-comedogenic - that is, it does not clog pores.
Suitable for all skin types, especially great for dry, acne-prone skin types or those with redness, eczema or/and psoriasis.
This is a product with safflower oil—Urang Natural Cleansing Oil.
*Synonym: Carthamuus Tinctorius
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that occurs naturally in willow bark, fruits and even vegetables. Known for their pore-clearing and treating properties, BHAs prevent blackheads, whiteheads and acne by exfoliating the skin and reducing oil secretion.
Salicylic acid is in the same class of drugs as aspirin (salicylates) and is a keratolytic that increases the water content of the skin by softening and breaking up the keratin between cells. This exfoliating ability can help make skin brighter, more even and smoother.
Our favorites with salicylic acid: Benton Aloe BHA Skin Toner, Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum, Cosrx Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser and Isntree Clear Skin BHA Toner.
( Want to know more about exfoliating acids? Here is for you—What is the difference between AHA BHA and PHA? )
Silicone is derived from silica (basic sand) through chemical processing before being added to beauty and personal care products.
Thanks to their unique liquid properties, silicones are used to improve skin feel and create a luxurious texture that applies seamlessly to the skin. They also form a barrier on the skin that helps lock in moisture and improve the adhesion of color pigments.
Many people fall for the common skincare myth that silicones are not safe for the skin; however, topically applied silicones are considered safe and are hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic - meaning they do not clog pores (as long as you cleanse them well).
Common silicone-based products include makeup primers, BB creams and foundations, as they help makeup last longer and fill in fine lines, wrinkles and pores, while evening out skin tone and reducing redness.
*Synonym: Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Methicone, Cyclopentasiloxane
Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (HA) - one of the most common ways to convert HA into a useful topical "extract" form.
Sodium hyaluronate is prized for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits, which help reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles by keeping the skin hydrated and plump.
When it comes to the beauty and cosmetics market, hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate are often considered the same thing and the two names are used interchangeably.
Sodium hyaluronate, however, has a lower/smaller molecule than HA, making it easier to absorb into the skin and more stable and less susceptible to oxidation.
Here are the facial care products you should definitely try: The Plant Base Waterfall Moist Balanced Hyaluronic Acid 100, Pyunkang Yul Mist Toner, and Purito Deep Sea Pure Water Cream.
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are commonly found in cosmetics and personal care products and are derived from coconut oil, palm kernel oil or petroleum.
In general, sulfates are safe for most skin types, but if you have sensitive skin or allergies, please note that sodium lauryl sulfate has a higher risk of being sensitizing and irritating, so it may be better to avoid it.
*Synonym: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Squalene is naturally found in shark liver, olives, rice bran, sugar cane, wheat germ oil and also in our skin. Rich in natural antioxidants, squalene helps neutralize free radicals and environmental damage and maintain skin hydration and skin’s moisture barrier.
Squalene is derived from squalene through hydrogenation - a process in which it is converted from unsaturated fats or oils to saturated and solid, which have a higher melting point as well as a longer shelf life.
Both are equally effective, however squalane is much lighter than squalene. It is non-comedogenic and has anti-inflammatory properties, making it great for oily and acne-prone skin.
Products with Squalane: Purito Centella Unscented Recovery Cream, Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Rich in vitamins A, C, D, E and antioxidants, sunflower oil helps protect skin from free radicals that can cause premature aging and regenerate damaged skin cells.
It also has anti-inflammatory and natural moisturizing properties that make it beneficial for dry, dehydrated, and sensitive skin, as well as skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and redness.
Sunflower seed oil contains high levels of linoleic acid, which aids to replenish the skin, strengthen the skin barrier and support its ability to retain moisture. It is a non-comedogenic carrier oil and acts as an emollient to soften skin and can be used for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.
*Synonym: Helianthus Annuus
Products with Sunflower seed oil: iUNIK Calendula Complete Cleansing Oil, Pyunkang Yul Deep Cleansing Oil, and Purito From Green Cleansing Oil
Sea buckthorn oil is known for its anti-aging and skin healing properties. This skin-boosting oil contains various vitamins, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, minerals and carotenoids that help the skin restore its barrier function, repair oxidative damage, promote skin hydration, elasticity and collagen.
Buckthorn is also excellent for reducing acne breakouts, inflammation and swelling, while fading scars and making skin clearer and smoother.
Products with sea buckthorn extract: Isntree C-Niacin Toning Ampoule.
*Syn: Hippophae Rhamnoides
Snail mucin is a type of mucus produced by snails that helps them protect their bodies from dryness, cuts, and harmful bacteria.
Also known as snail secretion filtrate on ingredient lists, snail slime has powerful anti-aging, hydrating, and healing properties that help regenerate skin, treat acne scars, and smooth fine lines.
🌼 Products with snail mucin: Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence and Benton Snail Bee High Content Skin Toner.
*Synonym: Snail Secretion Filtrate, Snail Slime
( Related blog post: 13 Best-Rated Snail Mucin Skincare Products )
Sucrose is a natural sugar that acts as a humectant, moisturizer and exfoliant in skin care and hair products. This non-toxic component is hygroscopic, which meanst has ability to attract and retain moisture.
Sucrose also gently removes dead skin cells that build up on the skin's surface and protects the skin from pollutants and toxins. Sugar is a prebiotic, meaning it nourishes the microbes/bacteria on the skin that help create a healthy environment for the skin's microbiome.
T
Tea tree oil has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal, antiseptic, and antiviral properties. This essential, clarifying oil helps relieve redness, swelling and inflammation, and is also effective in reducing acne-causing bacteria and healing infections.
🌼 Korean skin care products with tea tree: Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner and iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum.
*Synonym: Melaleuca Alternifolia
Tyrosine is a non-essential amino acid found in the body that supports the production of melanin and improves both collagen breakdown and skin pigmentation.
When combined with L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tyrosine simulates fibroblast activity to increase collagen production, making it an excellent choice for anti-aging products.
It is widely used in wrinkle creams, eye creams and serums, as well as sunscreens, facial moisturizers and makeup concealers.
Titanium oxide is a naturally occurring mineral found as a UV filter and/or colorant/whitener in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, including sunscreens, pressed powders, loose powders (or "mineral powders"), lotions, toothpastes, and soaps.
Titanium oxide is classified as a physical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from both UVA and UVB radiation, preventing sunburn and premature aging. It leaves a barrier on the surface of the skin and is not absorbed by the skin.
TiO2 is considered safe for our skin because it is gentle and poses no risk of sensitivity, which is why it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and redness-prone skin.
*Syn: Titanium(IV) Oxide, Titania
V
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that stimulates collagen production, protects skin from UV damage, fades dark spots and smooths fine lines.
This powerhouse ingredient is well-known for its anti-aging effects and skin brightening properties, making it ideal for people with dull and uneven complexions.
If you have sensitive skin, we recommend starting with a lower concentration, as you may experience allergies or redness with higher concentrations of vitamin C.
🌼 Korean vitamin C products: By Wishtrend Pure Vitamin C 21.5% Advanced Serum, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop, and Cosrx The Vitamin C 23 Serum
*Synonym: Ascorbic acid, L-Ascorbic acid, Calcium Acerbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Vitamin C Palmitate, Sodium Ascorbate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Calcium Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin C Ester, Ascorbyl glucoside.
(Related blog post: What Are Vitamin C Benefits in Skin Care?)
Vitamin E is an oil-soluble antioxidant that may help protect your skin cells from free radical damage and slow the aging process.
Vitamin E comes in eight different forms, and when it comes to skin care products, tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate are the ones you'll find in most ingredient lists.
Certain types of vitamin E also have anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe redness and inflamed skin. Vitamin E may lighten dark spots and acne scars and can be used as an anti-aging cream for people with fine lines and wrinkles.
🌼 Products containing Vitamin E: Cosrx Vitamin E Vitalizing Sunscreen SPF 50+, Pyunkang Yul Moisture Soothing Sun Cream SPF50 PA++++, and Urang Brightening Blue Oil Serum.
*Syn: D-Alpha-Tocopherol, D-Alpha-Tocopherol Acetate, Dl-Alpha Tocopherol, Dl-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate
W
Witch hazel, derived from the bark and leaves of the witch hazel shrub, is a natural astringent with antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties that may help relieve inflammation, tighten pores, remove excess oil, and reduce acne.
However, witch hazel may be irritating or cause allergic reactions because it is derived from botanical sources. Also, it should be noted that some studies have shown that excessive use of witch hazel in large amounts can have constricting, drying, and sensitizing effects on the skin.
*Syn: Hamamelis Virginiana
Wintergreen is a type of mint herbs known for its analgesic (pain-relieving) and astringent properties that may relieve muscle pain, improve complexion clarity and soothe irritation.
Methyl salicylate is the main constituent in wintergreen oil, which has anti-inflammatory properties but can be sensitizing on the skin and is pharmacologically similar to aspirin, so stay away from this essential oil if you are allergic to aspirin.
*Syn: Gaultheria Procumbens
Willow bark contains salicin, from which salicylic acid is derived, also known as beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). Willow bark has keratolytic properties, meaning it sloughs off dead skin cells from the upper layers and cleanses pores, revealing newer, younger-looking cells.
An extract of willow bark is a lipophilic plant compound that helps control excess sebum and future oil production - which may have clogged pores and led to blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts.
Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory, analgesic, soothing and antibacterial properties and is ideal for oily, combination and blemished skin.
Since salicylic acid can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 to avoid burns, age spots, and increased risk of skin cancer.
Here are Korean beauty products with willow bark—Cosrx One Step Original Clear Pad, Pyunkang Yul Acne Toner, and Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner.
*Synonym: Salix Alba
Z
Zinc oxide is a natural mineral that acts as a physical sub-block, providing UVA and UVB broad spectrum sun protection. Unlike chemical sunscreens, zinc oxide sits on the surface of the skin like a shield and scatters light.
Zinc oxide is known for its non-irritating and non-comedogenic properties, and is gentle enough to be used for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. The skin protectant helps heal, repair and treat skin irritations such as rashes, cracked skin, minor burns or abrasions.
Mineral sunscreens are usually thicker than chemical sunscreens and leave an unsightly white cast. Today, thanks to constant product innovation, improvement and refinement, many formulas with physical sunscreens no longer leave an undesirable white cast.
Here are some Korean sunscreens with zinc oxide—Neogen Dermalogy Day-Light Protection Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++, Dr. G Brightening Up Sun Cream SPF50+ PA+++ .